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When assembling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar award-winning establishments. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has made the owners totally astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” says the owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small shop achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary honour.